eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The Haynes manual says it's self-adjusting, but that ain't happenin. Drivers side is OK, but the pass side doesn't actuate even when the pedal is fully depressed. I removed the drum/rotor and turned the adjuster(star wheel) until the shoe began to rub on the drum and then backed it off slightly. When I apply the EMER brake only the drivers side stops. I even put some flat washers(shims) under the adjuster nut on the brake cable where the yoke is located. This is where the drivers side and pass side cables come together to take the slack out of the cable. This didn't help the pass side. Any ideas why only my drives side is working and what I need to do to equalize the pass side with the drives side?

truckmann

iTrader: (8)

Read trough this and see if it helps.
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=385483

TheChronic

iTrader: (5)

The shoes may be too worn to adjust any more.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The pass side shoe has very little if any wear since I almost never use the E brake. I only found out about this as I was changing the rear pads after 75K miles. The front pads are original and have been on the truck since Dec. 98. I use the gas pedal more than the brake. I also use the trans as a brake since I have a manual trans. I turned the star whell adjuster on the pass side until I could hear and feel the shoe rubbing on the drum then I backed it off slightly before mounting the wheel. After doing this adjustment I could still turn the pass side wheel by hand even with the E brake pedal fully depressed even though the drivers side wheel was clamped. Very strange. I was doing these adjustments alone. I need an assistant to actuate the pedal as I watch the cable movement.

Grumpy5.3

iTrader: (14)

Look at the inside of your rotor, if it is damaged or has a lip you will need a new rotor. I know it sounds dumb, but if you use your ebrake, you will have less problems out of the b/c they will self adjust

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I'm beginning to wonder if I have the drivers side adjusted out too far causing it to clamp the wheel on the drivers side before the pass side has a chance to move far enough to hold the pass wheel fast? I know if I turn the star wheel too far the drum is going to be hard to turn or the drum won't fit over the shoe assembly at all. I realize the brake is self-adjusting meaning the pivoting yoke assemble is supposed to apply pressure to both sides equally, but it's not working the way it was intended.

kdubbz

I had the same problem, I had to adjust them accordingly after new rear rotors. You have to make the pad closer to the rotor and then try it. Make sure both of the pads are about the same distance from the rotor, about the self adjusting, im not sure it works to well but your supposed to push the brake in fully 3 times then its done and you can try it.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I found my problem after purchasing the rebuild kit #89026788. The is a new part number since the rebuild tutorial was posted. It comes with all the hardware and shoes for both sides for $97 at the dealership. When I started taking apart the pass side which was the problem side I found out that the pushrod which pushes against the tappet to expand the shoe to clamp the wheel was MISSING. That's why only the drivers side was working. This had to have happened at the factory where the truck was assembled because the E brake has never been disassembled since new and I rarely if ever use my E brake. As a matter of fact the pass side has never been used because the pushrod was missing rendering it inoperative. If someone needs the unused shoes that came with the rebuild kit I just bought your welcome to them for free if you pay the shipping and $5 for my trouble to box them up and bring the to the UPS store. I email you the UPS tracking #. For the cost of S&H that's a bargain considering what the dealership charges and I'll never use them.

3406a

I had a recall on my '99 because the pins inside the drums break.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I never received that recall or TSB. I would never have found out about this problem if I didn't decide to replace my rear brake pads and check the E brake while I was at it. If I had it to do over knowing what I do now I would make myself a pushrod out of a piece of rod stock for under $1. Now I have a pair of useless E brake shoes sitting around gathering dust that I'll never use. Maybe my E brake will come in handy someday, but I sure hope it doesn't.